Fashion

Brand to Know: Erdem’s First Menswear Collection

In 2010, London-based Erdem became the first label to ever receive Britain’s Vogue Fashion Fund, founded just five years prior by Montreal-born Erdem Moralioglu. The women’s luxury fashion brand is best known for its nerdy-meets-poetic, Merchant Ivory film-inspired aesthetic that feels decidedly British romantic. 

Last June, the label finally launched its first ever menswear collection. True to form, the line feels simultaneously preppy and punk—and very Heathcliff tempestuously grief-stricken on a windy hillside. Classic but dramatic winter staples such as double-breasted trench coats; perfectly grunge, cozy mohair sweaters in strong hues; and of-the-moment items such as bucket hats, cardigans, turtlenecks and sweater vests make for one of the most exciting men’s collections we’ve laid eyes on in a while. Below, we spoke with Moralioglu about how the sudden gift of time made for the perfect opportunity and how Derek Jarman’s Modern Nature inspired him. 

NAME: Erdem Moralioglu
CITY: London
COMPANY: ERDEM

WHY MENSWEAR AND WHY NOW?
It’s something I have always wanted to do and something that has always been in my head. The last year has given me the time and space I needed to really focus on it. 

DESCRIBE THE IDEAL ERDEM MAN. 
When I imagine him, he’s maybe the brother of the ERDEM woman, and in many ways he’s much like the ERDEM woman. He has an innate sense of style and confidence, and he marches to the beat of his own drum. He isn’t any one man…

WHAT’S THE INSPIRATION BEHIND THE MEN’S COLLECTION?
I read Derek Jarman’s Modern Nature during lockdown, and I was fascinated by his home in Dungeness, which actually became the inspiration for the shoot.

Photos by Sarah Piantadosi

WHAT DID YOU TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION DESIGNING FOR MEN VS WOMEN?
Menswear really evolved from the women’s collection; I’d see the men from the team in the studio wearing pieces from womenswear, and there was a real, beautiful sense of fluidity. I truly think that as many women will wear the men’s collection as men.

HOW DO YOU SEE MEN’S STYLE IN 2021, AND HOW DO YOU THINK IT’S EVOLVED IN THE LAST DECADE?
I think that there is a real sense of wearing what makes you feel good.

CAN WE EXPECT TO SEE MORE MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS IN THE FUTURE?
Absolutely, I just showed my Spring Summer 2022 collection, and there were some menswear looks in there. But I am really looking forward to building on the men’s collection next season; it’s such a joy to see the ERDEM man come to life. 

DO YOU HAVE A FAVORITE PIECE IN THIS COLLECTION? 
I was trying everything on in the early stages of the collection. For me, it was about getting the perfect fit. I love all of the knitwear, and I have been wearing a lot of it already!

CHECK OUT THE COLLECTION